Xtreme Sound Deadening Car Insulation Mega Pak – Noise Dampening Kit for Floor, Doors, Panels, Hood, Engine or Trunk – Easy Self Adhesive Install – 9 Sheets 24”x48”, 72 sq ft Total

This product is great for heat and sound deadening on your floor sections

This is a really good product that works above and beyond expectations

It's amazing how much a difference this makes on the large unsupported sheetmetal panels on my van. There's a noticeable difference in the noise when rapping on a panel with a bare fist; it turns a high pitched knock to a low pitched thunk. I have a Ford e350 cargo van, with a 4x4 conversion, and I'm working on putting insulation in it so I can use it as a camping van. My previous van had foil-backed jute insulation, backed by some reflectix bubble wrap. For my new van, I'm starting out with dynamat, then the jute, and then the reflectix. Installation has been a big learning curve for me. * At the beginning of the process, I was doing all of my cuts with a tape measure, and a straight edge. But over time, I found that I can put a piece of the dynamat over the panel I want to line, and then I can use the back of my razor blade to trace the contour of the panel than I want to line, which will leave a divet in the dynamat. Then I can use the sharp edge of the razor to cut the outline of the divet I just traced. This gives very nice panel-shaped pieces of dynamat. * Keep the box it comes in! There's a large flat piece of card board in there, that's the same size as the dynamat. This makes a perfect backing for your cuts. * In my case, since I was working on a van, I was able to leave the box flat in the back of the van, and do all of my cuts there. Having a good large work table is key to doing this comfortably. * I was unsure as to whether I should overlap the pieces, or try to butt them together. I contacted dynamat, and they said that either work. At the beginning of my project, I had been trying to butt the pieces together, but found that there were always gaps which looked bad. Since the, I've been doing overlaps, which I find to look nicer. * When covering a panel that has holes for trim clips or seat bolts, etc, just install the dynamat normally, then you can cut out a small piece where the hole needs to be. If you cut the piece out shortly after laying down the dynamat, it peels up fine. At the beginning of my project, I was trying to pre-cut the holes in the dynamat before installing it, but ended up having a hard time getting it to line up exactly. Cutting out the hole afterwards is much easier. If you're worried about not being able to find it, because it's a small flush hole, then put something like a penny or dime over the hole. You'll be able to see the shape of the coin through the dynamat. * The more contoured the surface, the smaller pieces of mat that you should be using. In my van, the floor has a small area with a few dozen half-inch-wide ribs, and it's hard to get the mat to follow the shape if you use a large piece. And you don't want the air gaps in there, or you'll get rust, and it will supposedly not work as well. Multiple small pieces of mat, perhaps big enough to cover 2-3 ridges at a time, are much easier to manage. * Use the rubber roller to get the mat to stick down. It will save your knuckles versus doing it by hand. I found that I use the dynamat roller mostly, though I also have a j-handle roller with a longer handle -- that unit is less good in tight spaces, but the j-hook does let it edge better, and the longer handle is nicer when doing the roof. * Buy some bandaids -- when you're doing hard-to-get places, you're going to end up with bloody knuckles and such. The insides of the doors have been my hardest area so far.

I like it. It takes time to disassemble, install and reassemble your vehicle. I have a 4 door pick-up. I started with an idea of how I wanted to install the Dynamat, but threw that out when I met reality. I wanted to install it as 1 piece, but that proved impractical. I wound up dedicating 1 Saturday per door. No it doesn’t take all day, but it does take time. Plus I went whole hog on my truck: Dynamat on the inner door metal, Dynaliner on top of that. Dynamat again on the inside door metal and Dynaliner under the door panel. Instead of 1 big piece I used smaller manageable sections and installed it somewhere between floor tiles and roofing shingles. It’s not going to a car show and it got the job done. Tools you’ll need: razor knife, straight edge, cutting surface, tape measure, lights, sissors, cleaning supplies and patience. Ideally you need 2 sets of tools. One set for the cutting area and 1 set for the installation area. It saves a lot of walking back and forth. I found some rollers at a craft store. I also used a tennis ball and a putty knife. They come in handy in tight and irregular areas. Plus you can also just use your hands in other areas. It comes mounted on paper backing and its surprising how much rigidity it offers. I cut pieces and then did a test fit. But as soon as you start pealing off the paper, it gets floppy on you. You just have to readjust it, cuss it and learn from it. Around holes I cut squares instead of trying to make circles. It goes quicker AND I can reuse those squares later to patch or fill it places instead of cutting virgin material. Like the Irishman said in Braveheart “It’s mine!” The finished result is a big reduction in the noise level. It’s the equivalent of having an inner ear inflection: you can still here big and medium sounds, but the smaller sounds are gone. I read a ton of articles of this and the competitors and one guy wrote that all of them compare themselves to the original, so why not go WITH the original. So I did. There was no noticeable smell during or after. Other then than being a little broker and my hands and arms being scuffed up, I’m happy with the results. Don’t get in a hurry, do some planning and adapt to the installation.

I received what I ordered and it came in a timely fashion so it probably doesn't get much better than that.